Thursday 4 July 2013

Haddington

Haddington, county town of the traditional Scottish county of East Lothian, lies within a bend of the River Tyne seventeen miles east of Edinburgh. An attractive town with an interesting history, it is an intriguing place to wander around with its wide streets and compact centre. And surprisingly for a town of this size it has a staggering 129 buildings listed as of historical interest.
Haddington's past stretches far back into the realms of history, with a sizeable settlement in place here as early as 1000. It was made a Royal Burgh and the county town of Haddingtonshire by David I in the 1100s, there was a Franciscan church here from 1139, and around 1155 Ada of Northumberland established a nunnery, a remnant of which survives in the form of the ruins of St Martin's kirk. The 1200s saw the appearance of a friary and a royal castle ..... and then came the 1300s. Poor old Haddington suffered repeatedly at the hands of the English armies, and as if this were not enough 1358 saw the River Tyne flood much of the town and wash large areas of it away. But despite all this, Haddington grew in size and influence. St. Mary's Church, the largest parish church in Scotland, was completed in the 1400s, replacing the earlier Church of the Grey Friars. Known as the Lamp of Lothian it was destroyed by the English in 1356. Armies from south of the border continued to batter the town, and 1548 saw another English army in control of Haddington. Bypassed when the railways came to Edinburgh, it was served by a branch line from 1850 - 1968. The only evidence of this today is the Railway Hotel.
Calling in at Haddington I came not with an army but a camera and notepad. The centre of this lovely town is built around two main streets - High Street
and Market Street. These two wide, market areas
run parallel to one another, separated by buildings and a warren of lanes and wynds. The two streets come together at their western end on either side of the Town House. Built in 1742 as a result of the textile wealth flowing in to the town, its spire dominates many views of Haddington. Court Street lies to the west of the Town House, its grand buildings contrasting strikingly with those in High Street and Market Street. The council offices are fronted by broad pavements decorated with fountains and statues. Fine buildings adorn the north side of Court Street, housing the town's banks. And Haddington Post Office
can trace its history back to 1603 when it became one of the very first post offices in Scotland. 
Wandering around the town between the odd cuppa and slice of cake - it is always polite to try the cake - there are so many buildings that capture your attention, holding the history of the town within their walls. The oldest domestic building within Haddington town centre is Haddington House. Restored in 1969 for the Lamp of Lothian Trust it is surrounded by a traditional 17th century garden created by the Haddington Garden Trust and includes wild meadows, an orchard and a sunken garden. Laid out between 1973 and 1975, and based on 17th century garden principles, St. Mary's Pleasance Gardens are enclosed by walls created by Napoleonic prisoners of war, and again maintained by the Haddinton Garden Trust. Carlyle House is a 1708 Queen Anne terraced house, inhabited from 1834 - 1881 by Thomas Carlyle, historian, ethical thinker, social writer, powerful public thinker, and his wife who is today considered to be one of the finest 19th century women of letters. The house was opened in 1895 as a literary shrine, and still contains many of the couple's possessions. Many of the domestic and architectural features have also survived.
Picturesque, peaceful, flowing gently through  Haddinton, the River Tyne provides walkways that take you from town to countryside in a few paces. Swans and cygnets glide serenely over the water, wild flowers cling to the banks, ducks dabble amongst the weeds. Nungate Bridge spans the river, its three red sandstone arches dating from the 16th century when it replaced the original bridge damaged beyond repair during the Seige of Haddington. Above the westernmost arch of the bridge is an iron hook where criminals were hanged. Poldgate Mill, known as the Kirk Mill, was built during the 16th century, producing oatmeal. St.Mary's Church is well worth a visit ..... and you are assured of a very warm welcome. The stained glass windows are stunning, its history fascinating, its spiritual significance firmly grounded in history. And while in Haddington look out for the goats, the symbol of the town. Why? It is thought that this originates from the herds of goats that were once kept in and around the town although alas no longer. If you are in the area drop in to Haddington and stroll around its streets, have a bite to eat, and stroll some more before you move on.






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