Tuesday 16 July 2013

Blackness Castle

Blackness Castle, looking out across the Firth of Forth towards the naval dockyard of Rosyth and the iconic landmarks that are the Forth Road and Rail Bridges, is a hotchpotch of buildings dating from various periods throughout history. Although there had been a port at the nearby village of Blackness since the 13th century, serving the royal burgh of Linlithgow, little mention is made of the castle until 1449.
Now here comes everyone's favourite history teacher with some interesting info about Blackness Castle. So if you are sitting comfortably, I shall begin. 1453 saw the castle come into the hands of King James II when he annexed the surrounding lands, and it spent much of the next century serving as a royal prison - but housing only the more prestigious of his highness's countless enemies. None of your common or garden riff raff here, then. A great deal of the castle as you see it today dates back to a major reconstruction which took place under James V between 1537 and 1543. Thus Blackness Castle was duly transformed into one of the strongest artillery fortifications of its time. Much evidence of this can be seen in the labyrinthine entrance via the west spur of the South Tower - think I have my directions right - which includes a caponier designed to deal with any intruders who succeeded in gaining entry through the outer gate. This passage within the thickness of the wall provides loopholes which point back into the courtyard housed between the outer and inner entrances.
The South Tower, where the south facing walls were strengthened to a thickness of 5.5 metres, was without doubt the most formidable aspect of Blackness Castle's 16th century defences. These massive walls were pierced in several places at ground level, allowing artillery to fire both to the south and the south east. This all served the castle well until a certain Oliver Cromwell made an appearance in 1650 during his Scottish campaign. With artillery now so much more powerful and having a much longer range, Cromwell also had the advantage of attacking by land and sea. Badly damaged, the castle eventually surrendered.
The later history of Blackness Castle very much echoed its earlier role as a prison, housing vast numbers of French captured during the wars of the late 18th and early 19th centuries. 1870 saw Blackness become Scotland's central ammunition depot, and it was at this time that the buildings around the grassy courtyard south of the castle were built. The south range, which today houses the Historic Scotland shop, was originally the barracks, while the more ornate west block acted as the officers quarters. The whole open area of the castle was covered with a concrete and iron roof, and the pier was also constructed.
If you need to fidget, then fidget now before I continue ...... The army left Blackness Castle in 1912, returning during the First World War, then leaving for good in 1918. Designated an ancient monument, a major programme of work was carried out here between 1926 and 1935, returning the castle to a more medieval appearance. So what do you see today as you approach the castle through the little village of Blackness, following a narrow road alongside the Forth? Once you have mastered the entrance complex you emerge into a rather remarkable courtyard. This area is formed of natural rock, still extremely uneven after 600 years of constant wear and tear, and should be tackled with care. And equally as quirky is the actual shape of the castle, resembling a ship jutting out into the Forth. Keeping to the nautical theme, the South Tower is also known as the Stern Tower, the North Tower taking on the alternative name of the Stem Tower. This boat shape is best appreciated from the North Tower. Look along the wall walks which extend either side of the castle and past the Central or Prison Tower. And there you are ...... sailing off into the sunset!! When you come back to earth, ponder a moment on the fate of those who annoyed the prison guards. Beneath the North Tower is a pit into which the irritating captives were thrown. Accessed via a hatch in the floor on the lower level of the Tower it had only one benefit for the poor unfortunates who found themselves resident in this hell hole - running water. Yes, running water - twice a day at high tide!
As with all of Scotland's castles, the views from Blackness are wonderful. Climb up to the roof of the Central Tower, the highest point in the castle, to enjoy an amazing panorama of the River Forth and its surrounding landscape. Beautiful in the sunshine, not quite so delightful when windy, and definitely to be avoided when raining, it is here that Blackness can be seen at its best. Castle, pier, village, all set out beneath a blue summer sky, peaceful yet strikingly powerful still - this is how I found it when I paid a visit. A lovely spot, worth calling in to if you find yourself in the area ....... and not a prisoner in sight. Unless, of course, you know different.......      





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