Friday, 19 April 2013

Inchcolm Island



Steeped in Scottish history, Inchcolm Island is without doubt the most beautiful of all the islands in the Firth of Forth. Just a short boat ride from South Queensferry, a visit here will allow you the privilege of wandering around Inchcolm Abbey, a 12th century Augustinian abbey in remarkably good condition with some of the best-preserved monastic buildings in Scotland. As you walk around the ruins - and I use ruins for want of a better word - you gain a strong sense of how monastic life may have been many hundreds of years ago. Three covered cloister walks survive, along with a widely visible square bell tower, a refectory, chapter house, and a largely

ruined church. So why is the abbey here at all? In 1123 King Alexander I found himself storm-bound on the island for three days. Grateful for the shelter afforded him by the island's hermits, he promised to establish a monastic settlement in honour of St. Columba, after whom the island is named. Although he died before fulfilling this promise, his brother David I founded a priory here, with the help of a group of Augustinian canons, and it rose to full abbey status in 1235. There is much to the history of this incredible island. Known as the "Iona of the East" it was allegedly visited by an Irish missionary monk - St. Columba - in 567, and was later named after him. A popular home for hermits, you can still see the ruins of 9th century hermit's cells today. Long used as an exclusive burial site, even gaining a mention in Shakespeare's Macbeth, 11th century Danes paid vast sums of money to have their dead buried on Inchcolm.
Located in the centre of the Firth of Forth, its position left the island of Inchcolm open to continued attacks by the English, suffering frequent raids during the 14th century Scottish Wars of Independence. But the island, on occasions, fought back. The weather, or maybe the wrath of St. Columba, defeated attempts by the English to steal the abbey's treasures and torch the buildings. Frustrated by these unrelenting attacks, the monks spent more and more time ashore in Fife, and the abbey was abandoned following the Scottish Reformation in 1560.
But there is more to the island than the abbey. During the First and Second World Wars, Inchcolm was fortified in an attempt to protect both Edinburgh - Leith and the naval base at Rosyth. This included a battery of guns and a tunnel constructed under the hill at the eastern end of the island. The remains of a NAAFI are today used as a shop by Historic Scotland, who now run the island. Inchcolm has also been used as a makeshift prison in its day, and in the 1880's a skeleton was discovered built into one of the walls of the abbey. Found standing upright, it is of unknown date. Who, why, when we can only surmise.
Separated from the mainland of Fife by a stretch of water known as Mortimer's Deep, there is a huge population of seagulls on Inchcolm Island, which at times can make a visit here more than a little interesting, especially during the breeding season! But due warning is given when you arrive. There is an abundance of wildlife to behold, including grey seals, razorbills, puffins, aand guillemots. And if you are really lucky you may spot dolphins, porpoises, and even the odd Minke whale. This is a wonderful place to come, boats leave from South Queensferry and allow you an hour and a half ashore to enjoy the island. It is well worth it.

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