Friday 10 May 2013

The Walter Scott Monument

At first glance, one may be forgiven for thinking some bizarrely designed rocket had landed in Princes Street, towering over the Gardens with its sombre complexion and brooding stance. But this 200ft gothic spire, the largest moument in the world to be erected to a writer, was created in honour of local novelist and prolific writer, Walter Scott. Designed by a certain George Meikle Kemp, a carpenter from Midlothian, he entered the design competition under the pseudonym John Marvo. Why? He feared that his lack of qualifications and reputation in the world of architecture would disqualify him. However, inspired by the incredible architecture of Roslin Chapel and Melrose Abbey, he won the competition over many well-established names in this field, and the foundation stone was laid on August 15th, 1840, Walter Scott's birthday, the inauguration ceremony being held on the same date six years later.
This colossal creation, a testimony to the talent of Walter Scott and the importance of his contribution to Scottish literature - he wrote twenty three historical novels - is
constructed of Binny sandstone. Its dark colouring is the result of soot and pollutants sticking to its oily shale stone surface. Despite attempts to renovate the Monument during the 1990s, the building obscured by scaffolding for many years, the decision was ultimately taken not to clean the stone fearing it would sustain considerable damage. But the restoration programme did replace old repairs and areas of damaged stone, reopening the original Binny stone quarry to do so, although the Monument still retains its heavy, dark colouring.
So what does this prestigious memorial hold? 287 stairs will take those with the necessary stamina to the very top of the Scott Monument. Following the narrow spiral staircase, a series of four viewing decks offer spectacular views across
Edinburgh, truly breathtaking from the very top. Niches carved into the building contain sixty four statues, characters from the books of Walter Scott. And the statue at the base of the Monument depicts Scott with his devoted dog, a deerhound called Maida, carved from Italian Carrara marble by the sculptor Sir John Steell. For those without the willpower to climb the staircase, the museum room holds information on both Walter Scott and the Monument, and you can take a Scott Monument Virtual Tour.  
I am sure most of us are more than a little aware of Walter Scott. But did you know that all his novels were originally published anonimously, although it soon became an open secret and was widely suspected that this mysterious writer, nicknamed "The Great Unknown" and "The Wizard of the North" was in fact Scott himself. He finally revealed himself in February 1827 at a public dinner in Edinburgh. How far did people go, I wonder, to feign surprise! A leading citizen of this fair city, did you know that he rediscovered the hidden Royal Scottish Regalia in Edinburgh Castle, and threw himself into organising the visit by George IV in 1822. This was the first visit across the border by a British monarch since Charles II in 1650. And furthermore, this event led to a revival in the wearing of previously banned tartan. So you see, he didn't just write books. He was in fact trained in the law. But throughout his novels he demonstrates a true and deep understanding of the periods of history that run through his books, both people and places treated with care, compassion, affection - and a great deal of knowledge.
It is always a shame to end on a sad note - but end on a sad note I must. George Meikle Kemp, designer of the Scott Monument, never lived to see its completion. He tragically drowned in the Union Canal one foggy night ....... What a legacy he has left the city of Edinburgh, though. The Walter Scott Monument. You can't miss it, you mustn't miss it, so make sure you don't miss it and go see it. I won't tell you twice!!  




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