Wednesday 15 May 2013

Princes Street Gardens






Princes Street Gardens, in the heart of Edinburgh, a refuge from the city, a place of peace, tranquility and relaxation, a haven from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Visitors flock here with their cameras, locals retreat to this oasis for a spot of lunch, to sit and read, or just rest awhile and watch the world go by. Take advantage of the many benches or find a grassy seat beneath the shade of a tree. Stroll amongst the stunning flower beds bursting with colour - azaleas, tulips, daffodils, rhododendrons and many, many more all fighting for attention. Admire the ageless charm of the Gardens and wonder at the impressive architecture of the city surrounding you on all sides. And looking down from on high is Edinburgh Castle, strong, majestic, perched on its volcanic rock, the sound of the one o'clock gun echoing daily as it pierces the still air. It is difficult to imagine that these beautiful Gardens were once a lake called Nor'Loch, heavily polluted from centuries of sewage draining downhill from the Old Town. This stinking cesspit was drained to improve access from the New Town to the Old Town, eventually
transforming into all we see today. The Gardens are in effect divided in two by the street known as The Mound, both East Princes Street Gardens and West Princes Street Gardens having their own unique character.  

 So what is there to see, besides the myriad of trees, shrubs and flowers that decorate the lawns? Introduced through Princes Street Gardens, somewhat controvertially, in 1846, the railway runs secluded behind a row of trees, rarely disturbing the peace of the Gardens from its hideaway. The many statues include those to explorer David Livingstone, publisher and Lord Provost Adam Black, poet Allan Ramsay and church reformer Thomas Guthrie. Perhaps the most impressive is the Walter Scott Monument, a dark, brooding, neo-gothic testimony to this Edinburgh novelist and the largest monument ever to be built in memory of a writer. There is a small commemorative stone honouring volunteers from the Lothians and Fife who fought in the Spanish Civil War, a Norwegian Brigade War Memorial, and the Scottish American War Memorial to name but a few. Standing slightly hidden just south of the gardener's cottage is a large curved monument to the Royal Scots. Dating from 1950 it is frequently described as a "modern henge." Following the termination of the Royal Scots in 2006, additional battle honours gained since the 1950's were added, the memorial "finalised" in 2007. 
Perhaps the most popular, and certainly the most photograped, is the Ross Fountain. This ornate example of mid-19th century ironwork includes amongst its sculptures a number of mermaids, four female figures depicting science, the arts, poetry and industry, and a large female figure standing at the very centre of the fountain. Stretching to the sky, it's at its very best during late spring and summer when encircled by brightly coloured blooms. The Ross Bandstand, a rather bizarre construction in my eyes, is not used as often as it might be, but does come into its own during the Edinburgh Festival and the Hogmany celebrations. The Floral Clock is another outstanding attraction. Made up from hundreds of flower types, it is the oldest in the world and depicts a different theme each year. Its mechanism consists of a mechanical cuckoo, complete with house,
marking each hour as it passes. And at least once a day it does battle with the one o'clock gun!
 The Gardener's Cottage is a quaint, picturesque building, the kind you once found on the lid of a box of chocolates or the subject of a jigsaw puzzle. Looking at it you get an aura of J.R.R. Tolkein, expecting a hobbit to pop out of the front door and hurry down the road!
Sitting between the Old Town and the New, Princes Street Gardens is a sanctuary from modern life, somewhere to recharge your batteries, sit in quiet contemplation, or close your eyes for a while on the green grass. Children can burn off all their excess energy in the play area, cleverly placed at the far end of the Gardens
 and a little sustenance can be sought from the snack bars that await your custom. Squirrels pop in and out, robins perch on the backs of the benches, and songbirds perform from the treetops. There is no reason for you not to pay a visit to the Gardens - unless, of course, they are closed - . So do so, again and again and again. Bring a sense of calm to your hectic schedule, stop shopping and sit awhile, escape the confines of the office, go to the Gardens.
I can't leave without mentioning Christmas (sorry!) Princes Street Gardens becomes a Winter Wonderland, the heart of Christmas celebrations in the city. A large outdoor ice rink, the Edinburgh Wheel, countless fairground rides, a whole range of stalls to eat and drink all kinds of seasonal - and not so seasonal - fayre, and a traditional German Christmas Market with all the aromas that make yuletide so special. Lights hang from the trees, shrieks of delight resound from every corner of the Gardens enhanced by the laughter of children as they enjoy this run-up to the big day. Whatever you feel about Christmas, this has to be done. Go on - you know you want to ...........

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