Preston Mill

Preston Mill, half a mile to the northeast of East Linton, is an architectural oddity hidden away in a stunning setting surrounded by peaceful countryside walks. This picturesque scene is popular with artists and photographers, the conical roofed kiln and attractive red pantiled buildings beautifully complemented by the nearby millpond with its resident ducks and geese. This is a place to sit awhile, close your eyes and let yourself be carried back through the centuries to the days the mill was at its most prosperous. Listen to the sound of the water, imagine the miller going about his work, feel the sense of history flowing around you.
Preston Mill is one of the oldest mechanically intact water-driven meal mills in Scotland. Grain is thought to have been milled on this site since  1200, with a mill situated here from the late 1500s onwards. The buildings that we see today date from about 1660, with renovation worked carried out in 1749. Further work in 1760 saw a new cast-iron water-wheel put in place, while most of the remaining mill machinery probably dates from the refurbishment of 1909.
So how did this amazing complex of mill, drying kiln and miller's house actually function all those years ago? The mill itself is a rectangular whinstone masonry building, two storeys high, with a distinctive red pantile roof. A walkway leads from the upper floor to the top of the circular buttressed kiln, topped by a conical pantile roof and rotating cowl ventilator driven by a wind vane. Before milling, a coke-fired oven would have dried the oats. Water from the River Tyne flows through via a mill lade, supplying the water wheel by means of a small channel. The mill contained two sets of millstones, one to separate the husks from the shelled oats, another for grinding the oats into oatmeal or oat flour.
The Mill has, however, suffered countless setbacks over the years. Flooding has been a recurrent problem. A particularly severe event in 1948 saw the river rise higher than the Mill's upper storey, submerging all its buildings. Fortunately the Mill was restored to full working order through the generosity of Joseph Rank of Rank Hovis McDougall Ltd. The National Trust for Scotland has owned Preston Mill since 1950, commercial operations ceasing in 1959. If you are fortunate enough to visit the Mill when it is open to the public, you can see and hear the mechanisms of this wonderful mill in action. An exhibition on milling and the life of a miller details the history of Preston Mill and the people who lived and worked here. So are the romantic notions many of us have about the life of a miller true-to-life? Was it really like children's favourite, Windy Miller? The answer has to be no. Heavy lifting, dust, mice, rats and regular flooding made this no walk in the park. Difficult to imagine when you stand back and look at this picture of peace, tranquility and serene beauty today. If you call into East Linton, a delightful village in its own right, please make the short walk to Preston Mill and take a step back in time. You will not be disappointed.

Island of Inchgarvie

Like its fellow islands dotted along the Firth of Forth, Inchgarvie has been a place of refuge and defence for hundreds of years. This small, uninhabited island, with its cold warlike appearance, buffeted by wind and rain, is sanctuary only to a population of fulmars and kittiwakes. Castle remains and wartime ruins are all that now bear witness to the past, clinging to this hummock of rock rising above the waters of the Forth.
It is possible that early Christian hermits once eked out a barren existence on Inchgarvie. But in the days when boats were the only means of crossing the Firth of Forth, this island was of
strategic importance, lying on the main route between North and South Queensferry. It may at one time have been used in some capacity by marauding Danes as they attacked Fife and Lothian, and there has certainly been some form of castle or fortification here since the Middle Ages. James IV licensed the island's owner, John Dundas, to build a castle in 1491, while a rather more macabre use was found for Inchgarvie in 1497. It was used as a refuge for victims of the Grandgore (syphilis) in Edinburgh. Passed in September 1497, the Grandgore Act made Inchgarvie a place of compulsory retirement for sufferers of this unpleasant disease. No antibiotics in those days!! The castle itself was
completed in March 1514. Following a visit from artillery experts in July 1515, two serpentine guns and guns from Colstone were placed on the island.It was also equipped with a "blawing horn" and a chapel.
Attacked by the English, used as a prison, and a place of exile in 1580 for those stricken with the plague, Inchgarvie has a checkered history. Both the prison and the quarantine hospital were demolished by Oliver Cromwell. In 1779 the island's fortifications were renewed as a precaution, when American Naval Commander John Paul Jones harassed British ships from a base in the Forth. They were, however, never used in an act of war.
Maybe Inchgarvie's most noted use began in 1878. The foundations for Thomas Bouch's Forth Bridge were laid on Inchgarvie, and the bricks are still there today. These plans were abandoned following the tragic Tay Bridge Disaster. However, the west end of the island was later extended with a pier, and used as the foundation for one of cantilevers holding up the Forth Bridge we see today. This magnificent feat of engineering towers some 300 feet above Inchgarvie, marking the skyline and dwarfing the island lying in its shadow. During its construction, the island was used as an office, and the castle buildings were re-roofed to provide accommodation for many of the workers. Some of the stone from the castle was used to help build the caissons of the Forth Bridge.
Two World Wars saw the island again rise in importance, so close was it to Edinburgh and the Rosyth dockyard. It became a frontline defence against air and submarine attacks, loaded with guns, searchlights, soldiers and sea-watchers, permanently manned throughout the Second World War in particular.
Today the Island of Inchgarvie lies silent, the only sound that of seabirds as they soar over the island and flit amongst its ruins. You cannot land on the island - or so I believe - but you can sail close. Eerie, foreboding, hauntingly mysterious, oh what tales these lasting remains of Inchgarvie could tell if only they could speak. Brooding stories of pain and suffering, of wartime and peace, there is little to celebrate in the history of Inchgarvie. But as with so many like places, it is part of Scotland's past, part of its heritage. Besides which, you take Inchgarvie away - the Bridge falls down!!!
     

Back to the Botanics

Back to the Botanics once again, on not the brightest of days. In fact it was a typical Bank Holiday Sunday, overcast, promising a hint of sunshine but doing little to produce it. Not cold, but one of those take my coat off, put my coat back on again occasions, not too bad in the open, not too good in the shade. But this oasis of green in the midst of the city, with its stunning views of the Edinburgh skyline, is a late springtime myriad of colour, enough to banish the greyest of skies and the heaviest of hearts. Every shade of every colour known to man is bursting forth from the bushes, erupting along the borders and lighting up the well-manicured green of the lawns. Wandering along the paths you cannot fail but wonder at the display of blooms greeting you around every corner, nature at its most splendid. Landscapes such as this lift the spirits, making you feel good to be alive and fortunate enough to enjoy the world around us at its very best.

I took myself off to the Azalea Lawn, where highly scented, colourful azaleas and rhododendrons vie for your attention. Deciduous azaleas, as seen here, are popular shrubs providing beautiful spring flowers and warm autumn colours. The name "azalea" is used informally to cover several groups of rhododendron species, and the display here at the Botanics shows eight of the original parent species from temperate Asia and North America, along with a "range of cultivars and hybrids introduced during the last two hundred years."

Now I am no gardener, preferring to look rather than partake, so I did a bit of homework on these delightful flowers. Azalea plants and rhododendrons are related. All azaleas are Rhododendrons (capital R) but not all Rhododendrons are azaleas. Confused? I am, but I am equally sure all you green-fingered folk are not. Apparently if you read the scientific name for an azalea, you will see the word Rhododendron. This is because azalea plants belong to the genus Rhododendron, and the word azalea has virtually become this bush's common name. Following me? Good. But - and there is always a but - there are also members of this genus that are just plain "rhododendrons". Okay, so now we have this sorted, how can you identify an azalea as distinct from a rhododendron? Rhododendrons tend to be larger shrubs than azalea plants and have larger leaves. Azalea flowers usually have five stamens, while the rhododendron flowers have ten. And finally, many azalea plants are deciduous unlike the rhododendrons. Apologies to all the experts at the Botanics if I have not quite grasped all of this. Could be why I am a writer and not a horticulturalist!

Despite my botanical shortcomings, I do know that these flowers produce one of the most visually stimulating displays in the Gardens. Their colours are captivating, shades of white, red, yellow, purple, pink and orange peppering the bushes like a rainbow army.  If you head that way you must call in and spend some time soaking up the sights and smells of this beautiful corner of the Gardens, without doubt at its very best right now. 

Dean Cemetery, Edinburgh

It was one of those misty mornings, an almost eerie silence hanging in the air, when I decided to take a wander around Dean Cemetery. A place of dignity, tranquility, surrounded by an unique beauty, the gates to this fascinating burial ground were opened in 1846 and soon became the most fashionable cemetery in Edinburgh - and one of the most secure. This was of great importance at a time when the memory of resurrectionists such as Burke and Hare was still very much uppermost in people's minds. It was also the first cemetery in the city to be laid out in formal lines. The many monuments that border the pathways are a rich source of the history of Edinburgh, bearing witness to Scottish achievements in peacetime and times of war, at home and abroad. The inscriptions that adorn these memorials read like a roll call of the great and good from Scottish history - politicians, law lords, philosophers, architects, inventors, physicians, artists, academics, they are all here, laid to rest amongst the encyclopaedic tombstones that ensure their memory lives on. 

So who lies buried beneath the ancient trees, trees planted over one hundred years ago, now grown to maturity creating the atmosphere of a peaceful garden? David Octavius Hill, the pioneer of early photography, James Nasmyth, inventor of the steam hammer, and architect William H Playfair whose classical work is the defining style of the New Town. Renowned artists Samuel Bough, JD Ferguson and Francis Cadell now reside here, all members of the Colourists, a group of Scottish painters who at the turn of the 20th century set the art world alight.  Sir Thomas Bouch was interred here, just one year after the original Tay Bridge suffered its disastrous collapse, a structure he himself had designed. There is a huge red granite obelisk pointing towards the heavens, in remembrance of Andrew Russell, one time editor of The Scotsman. Lieutenant John Irving disappeared in 1849, a young man on the ill-fated  Franklin expedition to find the north-west passage. Thirty years later he was buried in the Dean Cemetery. And in a strange twist of fate, a memorial to Robert Anstuther Goodsir stands just a few yards away, the famous arctic explorer who lost his life in 1895 whilst attempting to discover what had happened to Franklin's men. One of the most impressive memorials, somewhat fanciful in my eyes, is that to John Leishman. His tomb is decorated with a bizarre tableau of winged lions, pelicans and rams heads. Weird. And Andrew, Lord Rutherford, lies beneath a huge, red granite pyramid, designed by his neighbour in death, the architect Henry Playfair.

History is built into the very fabric of the Dean Cemetery. It sits on the site of the former Dean Mansion House, and some of its incredible walls formed part of the original estate. But amidst the impressive sarcophagi, obelisks, gravestones and memorials, are those bearing the names of many who have not passed down through history. Their significance to those they left behind, however, is of equal importance, and their right to a lasting memorial of equal value. This remains a working cemetery, the past and the present mingling together under the shadow of the trees, seranaded by birdsong, watched over by the squirrels. Respect for the dead and compassion for the living, the recently bereaved, treasured memories, all come together in a final resting place encompassed in peace and serenity. Whether calm, troubled, or as a result of warfare as in the case of those making the ultimate sacrifice during the British army's Indian and African campaigns along with two World Wars, all are finally united in death, together with nature in the sombre yet wistful beauty that is the Dean Cemetery.   

Squirrels and Scarecrows ........ more from Sammy the Squirrel

 So, here we are, back at the Botanics once more. Seem to spend so much time here I might even get my own bench one day! But there is always so much to see, so much to enjoy, so many nooks and crannies to explore ........ and of course, Sammy the Squirrel. With bright sunshine getting the better of the rainclouds, at least for the time being, Sammy was bound to be around somewhere, twitching his nose into other people's business, scrabbling for food, or just making the most of another fine spring day. And it wasn't long before I spotted him sat upright in the grass, taking stock of all around him.
"It's still here, up there in the sky. The sun, it's still here. Exactly what a squirrel needs, a bit of sunshine. So much rain, so much snow, I was beginning to worry my poor old tail may fall victim to rising damp. It does you know ..... rise ..... damp. Not good for a squirrel my age. Mustn't complain, though. Here we are, a beautiful spring day, the larder is full, the youngsters now fending for themselves. So easy to find my hidden store of nuts when the ground is dry. Easier on the paws, not so much wet mud flying around."
I took a seat on the nearest bench and looked around at the myriad of colours splattering the borders and flower beds. Sammy pulled up a leaf beside me, his tam o'shanter set at a somewhat rakish angle on his head. Balancing on his hind legs, tail spread out behind him, its grey-brown colours catching the sunlight, he nibbled on a beech nut he seemed to produce from thin air before continuing his conversation.
"Been making the most of the good weather, having a good nosy around. Bumped into the strangest of creatures. Lopsided face the colour of an over-ripe tomato, arms waving around like the sails of a windmill, silver discs dangling from each wrist. A scarecrow apparently ...... or so Hamish the heron said. Goes by the name of Sally ...... Sally the Scarecrow. Whatever next! Keeps birds away from newly planted seeds, well crows anyway I assume. Didn't appear to be working too well with the pigeons. Maybe we need a scarepigeon as well. Still, I wouldn't like to meet her on a dark night."
Did I detect a shiver running down Sammy's spine and out through his tail? The thought of a midnight encounter with Sally the Scarecrow obviously unsettled him. He adjusted his headwear, bade me goodbye, and in the twitch of a whisker disappeared across the grass muttering something about the urgent need for a glass of elderberry wine and a lie down on a mossy bed.
Thought I would take the opportunity to pay the Queen Mother's Memorial Garden a visit. The garden itself is based on the motif of the historic Eassie Cross near Glamis Castle. The four corners of the garden represent different geographical areas of the world - Asia, Europe, North America and the Southern Hemisphere. Plants and shrubs representative of these areas have been planted, including the Welsh poppy, English Rose, the yew from Northern Ireland and the Scottish bog myrtle. The circular path and the geographical areas are divided by a double hedge of common hornbeam, whilst the labyrinth at the heart of the garden is planted with the highly ornamental and attractive myrica gale. Bedecked in golden catkins during the spring months, and golden yellow autumn leaves later in the year, it is good to sit awhile in one of the carved seating areas and soak up the tranquil atmosphere. Engraved tablets of Caithness stone bear the names of charities, societies and companies with whom the Queen Mother was associated, the same material as used in the making of the path.
The detail contained in the structure of the Memorial Pavilion is a true celebration of Scotland, its landscape, its wildlife and its resources. The ceiling is made from native and exotic cones representing all four corners of the globe, collected from the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh and its three regional gardens - Benmore, Logan and Dawyck. The walls are covered in shells and pebbles collected by children across Scotland. The centrepiece of the Pavilion is an engraved commemorative memorial slab, a relief bust of the Queen Mother replicated from the bronze of the King and Queen Consort in the church on the Royal Estate, Sandringham.
This is another wonderful area of these wonderful Gardens, another place to sit, wander, reflect, absorb the natural world around us. Where next, I wonder ........

Princes Street Gardens

Princes Street Gardens, in the heart of Edinburgh, a refuge from the city, a place of peace, tranquility and relaxation, a haven from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Visitors flock here with their cameras, locals retreat to this oasis for a spot of lunch, to sit and read, or just rest awhile and watch the world go by. Take advantage of the many benches or find a grassy seat beneath the shade of a tree. Stroll amongst the stunning flower beds bursting with colour - azaleas, tulips, daffodils, rhododendrons and many, many more all fighting for attention. Admire the ageless charm of the Gardens and wonder at the impressive architecture of the city surrounding you on all sides. And looking down from on high is Edinburgh Castle, strong, majestic, perched on its volcanic rock, the sound of the one o'clock gun echoing daily as it pierces the still air. It is difficult to imagine that these beautiful Gardens were once a lake called Nor'Loch, heavily polluted from centuries of sewage draining downhill from the Old Town. This stinking cesspit was drained to improve access from the New Town to the Old Town, eventually

transforming into all we see today. The Gardens are in effect divided in two by the street known as The Mound, both East Princes Street Gardens and West Princes Street Gardens having their own unique character.  

 So what is there to see, besides the myriad of trees, shrubs and flowers that decorate the lawns? Introduced through Princes Street Gardens, somewhat controvertially, in 1846, the railway runs secluded behind a row of trees, rarely disturbing the peace of the Gardens from its hideaway. The many statues include those to explorer David Livingstone, publisher and Lord Provost Adam Black, poet Allan Ramsay and church reformer Thomas Guthrie. Perhaps the most impressive is the Walter Scott Monument, a dark, brooding, neo-gothic testimony to this Edinburgh novelist and the largest monument ever to be built in memory of a writer. There is a small commemorative stone honouring volunteers from the Lothians and Fife who fought in the Spanish Civil War, a Norwegian Brigade War Memorial, and the Scottish American War Memorial to name but a few. Standing slightly hidden just south of the gardener's cottage is a large curved monument to the Royal Scots. Dating from 1950 it is frequently described as a "modern henge." Following the termination of the Royal Scots in 2006, additional battle honours gained since the 1950's were added, the memorial "finalised" in 2007. 
Perhaps the most popular, and certainly the most photograped, is the Ross Fountain. This ornate example of mid-19th century ironwork includes amongst its sculptures a number of mermaids, four female figures depicting science, the arts, poetry and industry, and a large female figure standing at the very centre of the fountain. Stretching to the sky, it's at its very best during late spring and summer when encircled by brightly coloured blooms. The Ross Bandstand, a rather bizarre construction in my eyes, is not used as often as it might be, but does come into its own during the Edinburgh Festival and the Hogmany celebrations. The Floral Clock is another outstanding attraction. Made up from hundreds of flower types, it is the oldest in the world and depicts a different theme each year. Its mechanism consists of a mechanical cuckoo, complete with house,

marking each hour as it passes. And at least once a day it does battle with the one o'clock gun!

 The Gardener's Cottage is a quaint, picturesque building, the kind you once found on the lid of a box of chocolates or the subject of a jigsaw puzzle. Looking at it you get an aura of J.R.R. Tolkein, expecting a hobbit to pop out of the front door and hurry down the road!
Sitting between the Old Town and the New, Princes Street Gardens is a sanctuary from modern life, somewhere to recharge your batteries, sit in quiet contemplation, or close your eyes for a while on the green grass. Children can burn off all their excess energy in the play area, cleverly placed at the far end of the Gardens
 and a little sustenance can be sought from the snack bars that await your custom. Squirrels pop in and out, robins perch on the backs of the benches, and songbirds perform from the treetops. There is no reason for you not to pay a visit to the Gardens - unless, of course, they are closed - . So do so, again and again and again. Bring a sense of calm to your hectic schedule, stop shopping and sit awhile, escape the confines of the office, go to the Gardens.
I can't leave without mentioning Christmas (sorry!) Princes Street Gardens becomes a Winter Wonderland, the heart of Christmas celebrations in the city. A large outdoor ice rink, the Edinburgh Wheel, countless fairground rides, a whole range of stalls to eat and drink all kinds of seasonal - and not so seasonal - fayre, and a traditional German Christmas Market with all the aromas that make yuletide so special. Lights hang from the trees, shrieks of delight resound from every corner of the Gardens enhanced by the laughter of children as they enjoy this run-up to the big day. Whatever you feel about Christmas, this has to be done. Go on - you know you want to ...........

Water of Leith - Craiglockhart and Colinton Dells

The Water of Leith, "a silver thread in a ribbon of green", wends its way from its source high in the Pentland Hills, snaking its way through the very heart of Edinburgh until it flows into the Firth of Forth at Leith twenty four miles later. A veritable oasis of green, a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of city life, a place to stroll at will in quiet contemplation, the Water of Leith Walkway runs alongside the river for its full length. So much to see, so much to ponder over, hardy souls walk the full length whilst others join and leave again at various points along the way.
Craiglockhart and Colinton Dells can be accessed across the road from the Water of Leith Visitor Centre, and affords a lovely walk to the village of Colinton a couple of miles away.
This deep-sided gorge extends from the delightful Colinton Parish Church towards Slateford. Carved out by the river, this impressive gorge has been continuoously wooded since the last ice age, a haven for wildlife and home to many species of trees. Mature and ancient mixed woodland include ash, lime, sycamore and beech, and are peppered with the occasional dramatic appearance of a gnarled oak or glimpse of yew and hornbeam. The wooded riverbanks are carpeted with wild flowers throughout the spring. Blossom hangs from branches, whilst bluebells, anemones and buttercups push their way up through the forest floor. The heady aroma of wild garlic fills the air, the delicate white heads of this fragrant plant waving gently in the breeze.
Designated as an Urban Wildlife Site, the wooded river banks and dense layers of shrub are bursting with woodland birds and animals. Over eighty species of birds can be found, including the heron, kingfisher, dippers ...... and of course the obligatory duck. Wrens and song thrushes flourish in the woodland tree creepers. And keep your eye out for otters, voles, stoats and weasels. If you are really lucky you may even spot the odd roe deer. The river itself plays host to a number of brown trout along with around a dozen other species. Even the occasional pike pops up every now and then.
But this section of the Walkway is also steeped in history, the past very much in evidence as you progress towards Colinton. Once very much Edinburgh's industrial heartland, the valley boasted over seventy mills harnessing the power of the water and producing paper, fabric, flour and linoleum. The mouth of the river supported a vibrant shipbuilding industry and busy dockland area, so important to the city at that time. The heart of the Dell sees you enter the land of Redhall House and Estate. The property of one Sir John Inglis in 1765, he hired a renowned landscape architect, Robert Bowie, to enhance this already beautiful area. He created a  landscape of ornamental trees, riverside paths, a walled garden, a fine hexagonal doocot (dovecote) and two grottos. The entrance to the estate is marked by a fine stone bridge - Bogs Mill Bridge - along with an avenue of lime trees. Redhall Walled Garden lies on the north side of the river, on the site of Jinkabout Mill.
One of the most visually impressive features of this part of the Water of Leith Walkway is Redhall Weir, which I believe feeds the still running lade (mill stream) to Redhall Mill and its cluster of cottages. Dating back to 1718, this collection of mills produced paper, ground barley, and latterly wood flour used in the making of linoleum, eventually falling silent in the 1980's. It is said that the paper for the Bank of Scotland's first bank notes was made at Kate's Mill!   
Arriving at Colinton, you have passed through so much. From the world of nature to Edinburgh's industrial past, it is all there in just a few miles. Remnants of yesterday mingle with wildlife, stretching along the riverbank, clinging to the sides of the gorge. Narrow, steep and stepped paths, bridges, level walkways, all lead you through the world that is Craiglockhart and Colinton Dell. Dog walkers, cyclists, joggers, and those just enjoying a stroll through the Edinburgh countryside, they are all there, so join them and see for yourself just how beautiful this "silver thread in a ribbon of green" really is.

Scottish Heath Garden

Every time I pay a visit to the Royal Botanic Gardens - and these are becoming more and more frequent - the environment is constantly changing, a rainbow of shifting colours, every shade of green imaginable bedecking the trees and shrubs, a landscape moving with the seasons, reflecting their moods. And the more you wander around, the more you discover, little niches to be explored like a book whose pages never end.
Replacing the old heather garden, the present Scottish Heath Garden was planted as recently as 1997, and comes complete with a simulated abandoned croft constructed using recycled materials from the original garden. This is a wonderful area to wander around, a plethera of native plants creating a natural haven for wildlife in a realistic countryside setting. It is difficult to believe that you are in fact in the middle of a city. There is even a lochan, built using peat blocks for a more natural looking effect. The whole garden is a mass of upland plants which are commonly found growing together in
the Scottish hills, bringing a wonderful sense of the countryside to Edinburgh. And although they are not native, several large trees and shrubs have been retained from the original garden, kept both for their botanical importance and to give structure to the Heath Garden.
Take time, also, to peruse the various information boards and learn a little about the history of some of the plants within the garden. Did you know that most parts of broom are deemed toxic - but that did little to deter the Scots from making a "heady wine and strong beer" out of the flowering tips. Surprising? I guess not for such an intrepid nation that loves its drink - and this is in no way a criticism! And of course we all know about the broom-making industry. Heather, abundant and versatile, a favourite for making luxurious matresses, hard-wearing baskets and brushes, a source of fuel for the fire ...... and a flavour for beer! The perfect home for baby grouse, it provided watertight thatch - for houses, not the grouse - as well as super-tough ropes.
Lets move on to gorse, prickly, spectacular golden flowers
during the late summer months, scented with coconut, yielding a vibrant yellow dye. Throughout the winter the tough older stems remain green, and when ground up to get rid of the spines made nutritious winter fodder for sheep and cattle. And furthermore, a gift of gorse was considered unlucky in Fife. Why? Search me! So much to see, so much to learn. Soft rush, used for thatching and basketry, the spongy pith inside the leaves an ideal wick for candles once dipped in fish oil or mutton fat. Willow branches, an ideal wood to weave into fences, their amazing ability to regenerate meaning they soon form the perfect hedge. And the bark of the willow was often chewed to relieve pain, making it an ancient form of aspirin! Juniper, a distiller's dream, the berries of this spiny shrub give gin its distinctive flavour. The ideal fuel for illicit whisky stills, the wood burns with little smoke and a pleasant aroma - back to the drink again! I can't leave without mentioning the good old Scots Pine, Scotland's native Christmas tree. Torches and candles were made from the resin-rich pine roots, and the wood an ideal material for building. Unfortunately, its high demand, coupled with long-term climate change, has all but wiped out the great Caledonian pine forests. Those that remain are today some of Scotland's important sites for biodiversity. High demand, versatility, cost-effective - so much of the natural world around us is swallowed up in our desire to have the best, get bigger and better. Progress always seems to come at such a high cost. The more we have, the more we want. Spend some time in these wonderful Gardens, admire their beauty, see at first hand just how fragile the world around us really is. And be thankful that places like the Royal Botanic Gardens are playing their part in ensuring many of our endangered species continue, at least for the time being.

The Walter Scott Monument

At first glance, one may be forgiven for thinking some bizarrely designed rocket had landed in Princes Street, towering over the Gardens with its sombre complexion and brooding stance. But this 200ft gothic spire, the largest moument in the world to be erected to a writer, was created in honour of local novelist and prolific writer, Walter Scott. Designed by a certain George Meikle Kemp, a carpenter from Midlothian, he entered the design competition under the pseudonym John Marvo. Why? He feared that his lack of qualifications and reputation in the world of architecture would disqualify him. However, inspired by the incredible architecture of Roslin Chapel and Melrose Abbey, he won the competition over many well-established names in this field, and the foundation stone was laid on August 15th, 1840, Walter Scott's birthday, the inauguration ceremony being held on the same date six years later.
This colossal creation, a testimony to the talent of Walter Scott and the importance of his contribution to Scottish literature - he wrote twenty three historical novels - is
constructed of Binny sandstone. Its dark colouring is the result of soot and pollutants sticking to its oily shale stone surface. Despite attempts to renovate the Monument during the 1990s, the building obscured by scaffolding for many years, the decision was ultimately taken not to clean the stone fearing it would sustain considerable damage. But the restoration programme did replace old repairs and areas of damaged stone, reopening the original Binny stone quarry to do so, although the Monument still retains its heavy, dark colouring.
So what does this prestigious memorial hold? 287 stairs will take those with the necessary stamina to the very top of the Scott Monument. Following the narrow spiral staircase, a series of four viewing decks offer spectacular views across
Edinburgh, truly breathtaking from the very top. Niches carved into the building contain sixty four statues, characters from the books of Walter Scott. And the statue at the base of the Monument depicts Scott with his devoted dog, a deerhound called Maida, carved from Italian Carrara marble by the sculptor Sir John Steell. For those without the willpower to climb the staircase, the museum room holds information on both Walter Scott and the Monument, and you can take a Scott Monument Virtual Tour.  
I am sure most of us are more than a little aware of Walter Scott. But did you know that all his novels were originally published anonimously, although it soon became an open secret and was widely suspected that this mysterious writer, nicknamed "The Great Unknown" and "The Wizard of the North" was in fact Scott himself. He finally revealed himself in February 1827 at a public dinner in Edinburgh. How far did people go, I wonder, to feign surprise! A leading citizen of this fair city, did you know that he rediscovered the hidden Royal Scottish Regalia in Edinburgh Castle, and threw himself into organising the visit by George IV in 1822. This was the first visit across the border by a British monarch since Charles II in 1650. And furthermore, this event led to a revival in the wearing of previously banned tartan. So you see, he didn't just write books. He was in fact trained in the law. But throughout his novels he demonstrates a true and deep understanding of the periods of history that run through his books, both people and places treated with care, compassion, affection - and a great deal of knowledge.
It is always a shame to end on a sad note - but end on a sad note I must. George Meikle Kemp, designer of the Scott Monument, never lived to see its completion. He tragically drowned in the Union Canal one foggy night ....... What a legacy he has left the city of Edinburgh, though. The Walter Scott Monument. You can't miss it, you mustn't miss it, so make sure you don't miss it and go see it. I won't tell you twice!!  



Penguins rock at Edinburgh Zoo!

Everybody loves a penguin. These naturally inquisitive, flightless birds waddle and hop over rocks, toboggan along on their stomachs, and have the ability to swim faster and dive deeper than any other bird. Highly sociable creatures, they communicate by sign language using their heads and flippers, and attract more than a little attention wherever they go. Whether in a zoo or observed in their natural habitat by those of us fortunate enough to have this opportunity, the penguin will amuse and entertain, loving an audience and the chance to show off. Comical, endearing, loveable, and captivating, they hold us spellbound as they move with ease through the water delighting us with their antics.
The penguins who reside at Edinburgh Zoo have more than most to be proud of. Launched in the centenary year of the Zoo, the penguin pool - Penguin Rock - has been revamped, and their impressive new enclosure has enhanced the whole experience for both penguin and visitor alike. Unique, exciting, innovative, up close and personal, you will spend more than a few moments enjoying the penguins and their posh pool. Lower perimeters made from glass and wood bring you within touching distance of the birds, enhanced viewing areas give superb observation platforms, and the penguins themselves gave inspiration to the interactive interpretation display. Feathers, eggs, nesting rings and parasols all feature.
And the pool itself? Clear aqua blue water, mock sandy beaches, rocks, a beautiful stone waterfall, a carved rock diving board and a water chute all ensure hours of fun for penguin and visitor alike. So bring on the Penguin Olympics. Edinburgh would certainly win its fair share of gold medals! Watch how elegantly they move through the water, leaping out every few feet in a move known as porpoising and which enthralls all who see it. This helps them to breathe, coating their plumage with tiny bubbles to reduce friction - or so they tell me. And you can also watch the penguins under water through one of the glass sides to the enclosure, yet
another awe-inspiring sight.

So where did the penguins go whilst their new home was under construction? Some remained at Edinburgh Zoo. A number of gentoos popped off to Belfast or Denmark for a holiday, and the king penguins languished in Gloucestershire for the renovation period. Now they are all firmly ensconced in their new state-of-the-art residence, a major attraction at the Zoo has resumed. The world famous Penguin Parade, the pride of the Zoo since 1951, draws the crowds and is the envy of all the other Zoo's inhabitants. It is lovely to watch them waddle as only penguins can, over the penguin brick footprints. A nice way of raising "penguin pennies", they carry  

personal messages, dedications made in remembrance of or for loved ones. How did this parade originate? In 1951 a keeper left the enclosure door open, and a quick-thinking gentoo escaped. But rather than recapture this miscreant, the keeper decided to see what would happen next. Followed by other penguins, they marched down the walkway of the Zoo to Corstophine Road and back - and the Penguin Parade was born. Go to Edinburgh Zoo, peruse  Penguin Rock, peep at the Penguin Parade, and pop in again and again. Oh for the life of a penguin ......... You may even catch feeding time. Now there's another fishy experience!!

                    



North Queensferry Light Tower

North Queensferry lies on the banks of the Forth, nestled between two commanding structures - the impressive feat of modern engineering that is the Forth Rail Bridge, and the more genteel-looking Forth Road Bridge. Steeped in history it is a fascinating place to wander around, signs of a rich maritime past hiding around every corner. And with the Firth of Forth being at its narrowest point here, North Queensferry grew in importance as a transport link across this stretch of water, and holds the distinction of housing the world's smallest operational light tower. Sitting on the Town Pier, dwarfed by the trademark red paint of one of the engineering wonders of the world, the Forth Rail Bridge, the North Queensferry Light Tower stands only 21 feet high. It was built by Robert Stevenson, engineer to the commissioners of Northern Lighthouses, playing a key role in the developing of the Queensferry Passage across the Forth and replacing the Old Harbour Light Tower also designed by Stevenson, which had originally

been installed on top of the Signal House staircase. This tiny, but nonetheless vital, part of Scottish maritime history, has been restored by the North Queensferry Heritage Trust and is once again in full working order. The lamp was relit in June 2010 by HRH the Princess Royal some 120 years after it had fallen into disuse, and should be seen by everyone who visits this fascinating town. Discover first hand how the light-keeper kept the lamp burning. Find out how the unique signalling system worked. And become a part of the history of this gem in Scotland's maritime crown by lighting the lamp and receiving a Certificate of Competence as an Honorary Keeper of the Light.

Beside the Light Tower stands its equally small, but nonetheless fascinating, tour guide office, a treasure chest of information on the lighthouse with a display of passage-related items and gifts. A replica of the Book of Regulations from 1843 contains a table of freight charges, porters, regulations, and sailing times, as well as a comprehensive list of the signal flags that were flown from the ferries to hail specific types of transport for onward journeys. Heavy freight would arrive at the port in a horse and cart, whilst those from the higher echelons of society would bring themselves and their goods in a light carriage, or "chaise and pair." These hired vehicles and horses would be left behind, and a fresh set picked up on the opposite shore. It was left to the ferry crew to hoist the relevant flags, indicating exactly what was required, the ostlers and carriage hands then ensuring all was in readiness for a swift onward journey. Today, the Fisherman's Hut sports a set of modern signal flags. Visitors can use them to create their own short messages. Command a fleet or spell out your name - it all makes an interesting souvenir snap.
For a real feel of what life was like as Keeper of the Light, grasp the opportunity while you are there to light the lamp. The Duty Superintendent of Passage will escort you up the twenty four narrow steps to the lamp, following in the footsteps of those who did so over 100 years ago. Discover how they kept the lamp burning, learn more about the unique signalling system, and hear how this tiny lamp kept passengers, livestock, cargo, and the Royal Mail safe on the Queensferry Passage. Receive a short introductory course on lighthouse procedures and optics - then comes the moment you can light the lamp and bring it safely to "Standard Flame Height." Your reward? Apart from creating your own little piece of history, you will be given your Certificate of Competence, stating that you are now an "Honorary Keeper of the Harbour Light Tower at North Queensferry, in the kingdom of Fife." So go on, do it. Cross the Firth of Forth 21st century fashion, then take a step back in time and discover one of this country's hidden gems. The North Queensferry Light Tower, so small and unimposing, yet so so important for the safety of so many and the efficient running of the Queensferry Passage. One small light piercing the night sky, holding in its beam those on the water leaving the haven of one shore for the safety of another. They do say the best things come in little packages ........