Portobello

The sun was shining brightly
It was such a lovely day
I thought I'd find the seaside
Down Portobello way.

Portobello, Edinburgh's seaside resort, three miles from the city centre and situated along the coast of the Firth of Forth, is where the beach is at for the folk of the country's capital. Very much a "bucket and spade" beach for the kids, it is also popular with dog walkers, kite flyers and leisure sailors, with its long promenade, small shops, cafes, pubs and ice-cream sellers. In 1795 a certain Mr John Cairns erected bathing machines on the beach, and Portobello quickly replaced Leith Sands as the favoured resort for the middle classes of Edinburgh. It continued to prosper during the latter part of the 19th century when as well as its mineral springs and hot and cold sea water baths, the growth of the railways and tramways transported working class holiday makers to this wonderful spot on the coast. The pleasure pier, funfair and whole host of seaside entertainment kept the crowds coming, only waning in popularity with the advent of package tours following World War II. In fact Portobello boasted the only pleasure pier in Scotland until it was demolished in 1917. Measuring 1250 feet in length it served as a stop for pleasure steamers. Punch and Judy were also firm favourites with visitors. Donkey and pony rides, seaside concert parties and summer variety shows were incredibly popular in the 1930s, entertainment taking place either on the beach or in a tented theatre. At the turn of the 19th century Portobello Sands were used for drill practice by the Edinburgh Light Horse Brigade who once had Walter Scott himself as their quartermaster. Spectators packed the sand dunes when a visit to Scotland by King George IV, organised by Scott, included a review of troops and Highlanders on the beach. And not to be outdone by other ports along the Forth, Portobello had become the haunt of the many smugglers and seamen that sailed the waters by the middle of the 18th century.
Of equal importance is the fact that the main part of Portobello has been designated an outstanding conservation area and boasts a very fine Architecture Heritage Trail. 1800-1830 saw Portobello a fashionable Regency Spa, many fine Georgian streets and crescents built during this period as wealthy families realised this was indeed an attractive place in which to live all year round. The Trail takes you past many buildings of both historical and architectural interest. The Police Station, described as a "jolly piece of Scottish Baronial architecture with pepper pot turrets" was completed in 1877, originally as the second town hall. Number 3 Bridge Street - once two cottages, 3 and 5 - is reputed to be the birthplace of famous music hall entertainer Sir Harry Lauder, achieving worldwide fame with his portrayal of a mean, canny, daft Scot. The last two surviving bottle kilns in Scotland can be seen on the site of the old harbour. The Tower, an octagon built in 1785 of stone and Portobello brick, was constructed as a summerhouse or "folly" for Shrub Mount. Medieval stone carvings, column capitals and 17th century architectural fragments thought to have originated from the Meerkat Cross in Edinburgh, the University buildings in Edinburgh's South Bridge, and St Andrew's Cathedral are all contained within the walls. The Coade Stone Pillars form the focal point of Portobello Community Garden. Originally standing in the garden of Argyle House in Hope Lane, these early 19th century pillars were restored and erected in the new Community Garden thanks to a Heritage Lottery Grant along with support from Edinburgh City Council and Portobello Community Council. The designs on the two smaller pillars are identical to those adorning the chimneys of Dalmeny House in South Queensferry. Abercorn Park, St Mark's Episcopal Church, Brighton Park, Georgian streets and villas, they can all be seen as you wander around Portobello. So much to see .... too much to mention.
Portobello - beautiful in the summer, amazing sunsets, stunning light reflected on the water as the sun rises over North Berwick. And in winter? Somewhat melancholy, a touch of Victorian melodrama as the wind whips through the rooftops, but nonetheless an atmospheric place for a gentle stroll wrapped up against the weather. Just a short bus ride from Edinburgh city centre, Portobello beckons whatever the time of year. If you haven't been, then go. If you have been, then go again. Build a sand castle, paddle in the sea, slurp on an ice-cream, enjoy a cuppa in a cafe, sit back and allow yourself to be transported back to the days of the bathing machine and the modesty of the swimming costumes. Imagine the sights, the sounds ...... then drift back into the 21st century and with a wry smile toddle off home.