Overlooking the harbour at Dunbar are the remains of what was once one of Scotland's mightiest castles. Now in a dangerous and very precarious state, public access has not been allowed since part of the ruins collapsed into the sea in 1993. Only seabirds sit upon the ancient walls, raising their young, swooping down from their mighty perch to dive among the waves before returning to their nests in their own particular corner of Scottish history.
As with many of Scotland's castles, a long and varied history has attached itself to Dunbar Castle. Roman excursions into this proud north-of-the-border country saw the Votanich tribe build defences on this rocky outcrop. A Northumbrian stronghold in 650AD, it later became a Pictish fortress until it was captured by a Scottish army under Kenneth MacAlpin in 849AD. It is believed that the first stone castle was constructed in the 1070s by the Earl of Dunbar, attacked by the English in 1214, somewhat unsuccessfully, and again in 1296 by Edward I who had better luck than the previous onslaught. Dunbar Castle fell out of favour after offering a safe haven to Edward II following the Battle of Bannockburn in 1314. Refortified in 1333, perhaps its most famous moment came in 1338 when Agnes Randolph of Dunbar - or Black Agnes - made an historic defence of the castle during a sustained five month siege by the English.
Still awake? I know you all love my history lessons, so let me continue. The poor old castle was rebuilt in the early 1400s before repelling yet another Englsh siege in 1435, again suffering severe damage at their hands in 1448. All these dates, and not a red rose or a box of chocs in sight! Dunbar Castle was once more put back together in 1515, just in time for the English to throw themselves at it in 1548. You can just picture them sat back waiting for the fortifications to go up before popping out of their tents to pull it all down again. Bit like a child with a box of lego. On 24th April 1567 the tragic figure of Mary Queen of Scots was brought to Dunbar Castle following her abduction by the Earl of Bothwell. The couple later returned to the castle after their marriage on May 15th. When Mary surrendered and abdicated, the Scottish Parliament ordered the destruction of the castle, fearing that its influence was so strong its possession destabilised the balance of power in Scotland.
Poor Dunbar Castle - loved, hated, scourge of the English, a thorn in the side of the Scots, pulled down, built up, pulled down again. Its final indignity came in 1844 with the construction of the Victoria Harbour. A new entrance for Dunbar's harbours was blasted through the end of the rock on which this proud castle stood. Even progress, it would seem, had little respect for this landmark of Scottish history. Once upon a time its body of buildings measured in excess of 165 feet from east to west, and in places up to 210 feet from north to south. The south battery is situated on a detached perpendicular rock, 72 feet high, only accessible on one side. The interior of the citadel was octagonal in shape. Around the middle of the fortress part of a wall can still be seen, through which there is a gateway. It is thought this led to the principal apartments. Contained within the north west section of the ruins is an apartment twelve feet square, virtually inaccessible, which tradition dictates was the apartment of Mary Queen of Scots. A natural cavern lies to the noth-east of the castle front, which supposedly formed part of the dungeons where prisoners were confined.
If you all feel like a lie down in a darkened room now, then feel free. But I love history, love castles, love the sea. And when they all come together as they frequently do in Scotland, there is no stopping me.
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